Sunday, October 2, 2022

The Ultimate Guide to Sarawak Laksa in Kuching 2022

It's a bit hard to explain what Sarawak Laksa is. You have to taste it to know that it's completely different from any other more well-known laksa variants. Why it's so under-the-radar, wow, I think I could spend another post simply talking about its origins, but just understand that traditionally there were only a few small family-owned establishments dominating the laksa paste supply chain, thus the small supply and inability to spread its wings.

As good as an overview you can find, though I feel that the only legitimate noodle is vermicelli.

I remember whenever my mum spent an entire day making laksa at home, every drop of broth felt like liquid gold. If I used less broth for each bowl, I might accumulate enough to make an extra bowl for supper. Therefore when I see customers leaving entire bowls of (good) laksa broth behind, I get super angry deep down inside. That's how much I love my Sarawak Laksa.

Cutting the long story short, I shall now go straight into my report on all the noteworthy Sarawak Laksa stalls I've personally tried in Kuching, and this is a post that will continuously be updated.

Update August 2022:

Newcomer - Laksa Stall at Jia Yan Cafe (thanks to the recommendation from Kopikho!)

There are a couple of interesting notes about this new addition. Firstly, it's located along the 2nd row of shophouses right opposite The Spring Kuching (there is a nice overhead bridge), so a shopping/movie date can be planned in conjunction with the laksa trip. Secondly, I looked at my picture of the stall again and again but couldn't find a name for the shop, so let's just call it "Laksa Stall at Jia Yan Cafe".

The beauty of this laksa is in the broth - intense with laksa flavour without being too rich or viscous, good to be slurped till the last drop.

See, no name right?

Beautiful bowl of laksa

Pro tip: The Teh Tarik and Kolo Mee Tai Mak in the same coffeeshop are excellent as well.

Teh Tarik Porn

Original Post in late 2019:

1. Ah Mui Laksa - currently, my favourite

Foody Goody Cafe beside the current Kuching Specialist Hospital (it's moving soon) is a place known for having slightly pricier products due to the steady clientele from the hospital. Looking past the prices, it also houses my favourite laksa of the moment, Ah Mui laksa.

Everyone has their own laksa preferences, and I like mine with a wholesome seafood broth and strong spicy flavours, without being too viscous at the same time. Ah Mui hits the spot.

Ah Mui Laksa: Take 1

Ah Mui Laksa - Take 2
 
Pro Tip: Suck up the remaining broth with some crispy dough fritters from the same coffeeshop.


2. Laksa at Sin Chong Choon Cafe - you will be lucky to find a seat

This is the laksa I 'grew old eating', as I must have been already 20 when I started having it, as it's literally within walking distance from my apartment.

The owner obviously didn't grow much older after all these years, what happened to me?
A very good bowl of Sarawak Laksa

Honestly, it's hard to find fault in this bowl of laksa, as can be seen from the sheer popularity of it. Then again, I feel it has lost a bit of magic over the years. Because they cook vermicelli in bulk to speed up the cooking process (reduce waiting time), the hot broth is added to a bowl of cold vermicelli these days, resulting in a lukewarm bowl. If I had my way, I prefer a bowl served piping hot.

Pro Tip: Order the Teh C Peng Special, which must be one of the very best in town.



3. Poh Lam Laksa at Chong Choon Cafe - The OG of the Laksa I "grew old eating"?

The OG of the laksa and Teh C Peng Special at Sin Chong Choon? I need to dig deeper to give you a better answer, but there are definitely similarities!

If you are a tourist living downtown in Kuching and only have time for 1 laksa, this should be the one you go for. It has the well-balanced characteristics of the one at Sin Chong Choon, but feels hotter and fresher when served.

Closed on Tuesdays!

Another great bowl.
Pro Tip: The Teh C Peng Special as well. After having them at Chong Choon and Sin Chong Choon, you will struggle to find a better glass of Teh C Peng Special in Kuching.


 4. Laksa at Choon Hui Cafe - Anthony Bourdain's "Breakfast of the Gods"

Supporters of deceased culinary legend Anthony Bourdain will have to walk this rite of passage to understand what he meant describing Choon Hui's laksa as the "Breakfast of the Gods". He confirmed his love for this dish by visiting Choon Hui not once but twice during his rare voyages into Kuching.

Highest base price of them all.
The richest of them all too.
I have to say, I understand why a non-local will really really love Choon Hui's version of Sarawak Laksa. It's rich, heavy, thick and packs a really good punch, giving you high levels of every sensation Sarawak Laksa is supposed to provide.

That said, I find it very difficult, if I live long-term in Kuching, to have this version of Laksa frequently, as it's a little bit of an overkill, but don't misunderstand me, it's still an excellent bowl, made for the occasional indulgence.

Pro Tip: Don't leave Choon Hui Cafe without trying their Popiah.

Also a very worthy item in the famous coffeeshop.

I've actually tried many more laksas during my last visit to Kuching.

Sad to say, things don't always remain the same. Some of my old favourites were not what they used to be.

After much deliberation, I've decided to only include the stalls that I am confident will give you a good laksa experience, so that's all for now. I will continue updating this list with new worthy candidates though, so do stay tuned!

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