Follow the Chef: Gabriele Luna, the soulful Italian chef in Bangkok

Update 26/3/2021:

Since 1st February 2021, Chef Gabriele has taken his talents to L'Oliva, a beautiful Abruzzo restaurant in Sukhumvit 36. I personally feel that it's a nice step in his career, as he can share his cooking philosophy to a bigger group of mainly-local diners, and for me, to be able to enjoy his food in an even more comfortable environment. You know where to "follow' him now!

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Foreword: I wanted to describe him as the "hidden pasta granny" in Bangkok, but chickened out in the last second! The soulful Italian chef works too I guess, just not as well😂.

I couldn't allow 2020 to fly by without blessing you guys with a Bangkok-based addition to my "Follow the Chef" series could I? It hadn't been an easy process in my search, but I am proud to write about Chef Gabriele Luna of About Eatery as the latest one on my brilliant (if I may say so myself) list.

Chef Gabriele Luna with his Spaghetti Carbonara

Pasta is something close to my heart. Even though I am not Italian, it's probably the 2nd most-cooked food group in my personal cooking repertoire (after my mum's cuisine), and that is also why not many restaurants (even specialty pasta restaurants) can truly impress me with their pasta dishes, until I was invited to About Eatery last year by dear friend and fellow foodie Rosalind.

In fact, my first impression of Gabriele had nothing to do with pasta. I sat at the kitchen counter at About Eatery watching Chef Gabriele prepare his Locale tasting menu for me, which was quite memorable as I seldom see a chef show passion and attachment to his food in his every demeanour so naturally.

During my subsequent visit though, I tried his signature Strascinati, which convinced me that there is a whole new world of pasta Gabriele knew that I didn't. It's a world Chef Gabriele spent all 36 years of his life understanding, eating, making, cooking, and now, blessing all foodies in Bangkok with.

Strascinati, the first pasta shape Chef Gabriele made as a little boy

I grew up manipulating plasticine, my kids grew up kneading Playdough. Chef Gabriele, on the other hand, had a childhood in his native Basilicata surrounded by real pasta dough. His nonna (grandmother) made and sold hand-made pasta everyday, and by the time he was 6, Chef Gabriele was already making his first pasta shapes sitting under the kitchen counter. His first shape? Strascinati, the exact shape (with his fingerprints and all) he wow-ed me with, and also the dish he chose to showcase during his feature video on Iron Chef Thailand.

One of his proud signatures at About Eatery

Even though he spent a few of his younger years studying Computer Science Engineering in University, Gabriele's lived his life with cooking in his blood, learning in professional kitchens and eventually graduating from cooking school and working this way through around 10 restaurants in Italy, ranging from Michelin Star kitchens to high-volume restaurants (4 cooks serving 200 covers every service). A period of note, must definitely be his stint with "King of Carbonara" Luciano Monosilio, one which honed his skill to making the best version of this world-famous dish, one that you must not miss at About Eatery (not the set-lunch version!!).

Maybe the best Spaghetti Carbonara you will ever eat.

Ultimately, his love the culture and people (😄)of Indo-China brought him to Bangkok. Starting off at the recently-closed former Italian food powerhouse L'Opera, Chef Gabriele is now completing his 3rd year as executive chef at About Eatery, a restaurant more known for owner/sommelier Giulio Saverino and his catalogue of hand-picked natural wines. It's also a place that allowed Chef Gabriele to spread his wings and express himself. A place where he can scour Italy for the best ingredients to serve his customers on his intricate cold-cut boards and pasta dishes.

I would like to end off by mentioning a dish he prepared for me that touched my heart deeply. This Trittico Lucano (made of 3 different shapes of hand-made pasta served in a rich ragu and chilli oil) was the same pasta he ate every Sunday from young till he left his hometown at 26. While I chewed on it, I was imagining myself sitting at his family table in Basilicata. It was a moving moment, and an honour to have had the privilege to enjoy. 

Trittico Lucano

Then again, it would be thoroughly unfair to leave the final impression of Chef Gabriele as plainly a pasta expert. Even if his pasta dishes are out of this world, he is an accomplished chef who gives equal love to all the dishes he creates, pasta or not.

Let's just hope he continues to stay in Bangkok, or move to anywhere I may go in the future 😍, as having him around is certainly a huge blessing from the Italian pasta grannies. I will leave you with a video of him making pasta at his dedicated pasta corner at About Eatery.

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"Follow the Chef" is a new blog series where I sit down face to face with chefs and help them tell you what they want to say, in their perspective. My inspiration for this series stems from the fast-changing dining landscape in Bangkok, which is both exciting yet confusing for consumers like us. Do we follow the restaurants, or follow the chefs? I hope I can help you make a better decision.

Stranger in Bangkok's Retty food tour: International at Asoke

Hungry people at our first stop, Cali's Grill.

Over the last couple of years, the scary prospect of leading a food tour popped up many times. As much as I have confidence in my own recommendations, taste is subjective, and I will be shattered if things didn't work as planned, leaving restaurants/attendees disappointed.

This was the case until the possibility to curate a food tour for Retty Thailand popped up. Retty is the most popular foodie app in Japan, with the sole purpose of creating an active foodie community and a platform to facilitate it. It plans to do the same in Thailand, albeit in small baby steps, as it has only set foot here for slightly more than a year.

Knowing I will be leading a small group of pure foodies who have an open mind to accept all kinds of food, and a bunch of trustworthy restaurant owners/groups to back me up, I summoned enough courage to lead my first ever food tour: "International in Asoke", focusing on a comfortable walking tour around Asoke BTS Station/Sukhumvit MRT Station to enjoy a variety of cuisines.

Stop 1: Cali's Grill, representing Ecuadorian and Mexican cuisine

As the tour started pretty late at 1pm, Cali's Grill, with the immense hospitality of chef/owner Mauricio Zurita, was the perfect place to start. We totally enjoyed the South-American cuisine, especially the lapingachos, which are Ecuadorian potato patties. They were a joy to eat, especially when paired with Mauricio's signature salsa. 

Lapingachos, still thinking of it today

Mauricio's signature salsa, which I think goes well with everything

Assorted Quesadillas

Stop 2: Paris Mikki, representing authentic French pastry

Without being overly-naggy on the excellence of Paris Mikki's products on my blog, I will let pictures do the talking.

Copa Cabana

My recent favourite, the St. Lucia, which is a refreshing tangy mango and passionfruit-based dessert

Stop 3: La Dotta La Grassa, representing Italian cuisine (permanently-closed)

After a brief sweet respite at Paris Mikki, we only had to cross the road to reach our next stop, the whopping new little sister of Thong Lor fresh pasta institution La Dotta. The classy yet casual pink vibe La Dotta La Grassa represented was apt in the mid-afternoon laze. 

Linguine Vongole, a favourite among the ladies

I personally preferred this manly Wagyu Mac n Cheese more

The Bomboloni bar is one of LDLG's signatures, we of course couldn't miss trying them out

Final stop: Ping's Asoke, representing Singaporean and Thai-Teochew cuisine

How can an Asoke food tour led by me not include a visit to one of my absolute favourites in the city?

This time, however, aside of my beloved fish maw soup, I specially ordered a Singapore Popiah (fresh spring roll) party platter and Singapore curry puffs (both only available through special order or catering, not in Ping's everyday menu), to fit into the theme of international cuisine.

Mouth-watering fish maw soup, my kids are growing up with this as their favourite dish in the city

Singapore Popiah platter, a foodie do-it-yourself activity

Singapore curry puff, in my opinion, the best version of it in Bangkok

Caught engrossed in foodie conversation with food writer Nianne-Lynne Hendricks

Phew, that was an epic food journey for an afternoon's work wasn't it. 

I was glad to see happy faces and full tummies at the end of the tour. I could ask for nothing more.

Photo credits: Retty Thailand

Slow Afternoon with the Family in Bangkok: Open House @ Central Embassy

Update: 18 November 2018

Possibly as a form of crowd control, Open House will impose a minimum spend of 400thb to allow access to the play area from 1st December 2018, which in my opinion is a fair policy. Take note that this is not an entrance fee, but a requirement to spend 400thb within Open House. 

Enjoy yourselves in my favourite indoor space in Bangkok! 

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Last Sunday was a special one.

My family spent an entire day in what was my least favourite mall in Bangkok barely a year ago - Central Embassy. When it just opened, I went once in anticipation and got sorely disappointed at a place that seemed to exist to automatically exclude 90% of the local population due to its over-luxurious positioning. "What's the point?" I wondered. It was nice, but a bit (actually a lot) too nice.

It obviously wasn't working very well, so Central Embassy sprang into action and created a whopping 6th floor called Open House, which has single-handedly transformed the mall into one of the most all-inclusive, kid-friendly, family-friendly location in town.

Not the best picture, but this is a snapshot of what Open House is all about.

I am not suggesting you spend an afternoon here and not spend a single cent (it's probably not possible too with all the good food choices), but this is not an indoor playground nor a restaurant, you don't have to pay to enter or be obliged to buy anything, and that makes the concept even more beautiful. It's a food court, cafe, playground, co-working space, restaurant, library, bookstore combined into 1.

The cool co-working space tucked in the corner of Open House. There are meeting rooms for rent too, to impress your staff.

I will now list down a few things a family can do here to chill the entire afternoon away.

1. Treat it like your own restaurant

As a food court, Open House is, to me, something like the the G-floor at The Commons (at Thong Lor Soi 17), just better. Many of the coolest names in town are there (Paris Mikki, Peppina, Lady Nara, Bao and Buns etc.). You can order from any 'stall' and eat anywhere.

Always attracted by the firewood used as the main display at Peppina, referring to their woodfire oven.

You can find every cuisine here, even live freshwater shrimp that can be cooked to your liking.

It always helps when my favourite Paris Mikki is around.

2. Treat it like your favourite cafe

There is more than 1 place to grab a top-notch coffee at Open House (3 in fact, I will let you locate them yourselves) which you can pair with the best pastry/ice-cream Bangkok has to offer.

Have a 'chill' afternoon while your kids can entertain themselves doodling away.

Noah's favourite secret elevated corner.

Baby E's enjoying herself too.

Noah's photography skills improving. We are just gonna pretend Baby E is not in the picture.

3. The most peculiar mini indoor Playground

There's something about that playground. It's small. It looks like a mish-mash of solid-coloured square cushions. Yes they recently added a slide that makes it all the more exciting, but you just can't put a finger to why, without any equipment that you will normally expect from a playground, kids just cannot get enough of it.

Right there, yes just that one in the corner with the slide, that small place is the playground.

They just can't get enough of it.

Kid-friendly dining area conveniently-located near the playground.

Remember to bring socks for your kids. If not you can buy socks from the counter at a good price too.


4. Treat it as your favourite library/bookstore

Some would think that Open House is actually a bookstore, just one that you can eat in. I won't really argue against that. You are free to grab a book, sit somewhere comfortable (there are nice quiet corners everywhere even though there are kids all over the place) and read your way through the afternoon, and have the choice of purchasing it too. Reading is one of our favourite activities here.

Books and dining areas fused into one.

Baby E happily reading.

5. Play a game

If you have run out of ideas, use a receipt to loan a game from the information counter to have some fun with the family. This is a brilliant new initiative by Open House which, at least to me, raises the fun level to great new heights.

Noah chose Bad Dog, which he didn't even dare to play. #COYS

Baby E was the braver one.

Big Brother was just hiding!

So, yeah, now you know where my new favourite place is.

And, no, this is not a sponsored post.

We'll be back soon.

Paris Mikki: Authentic French Pastry in the heart of Bangkok

Updated 16th January 2018

Since many months ago, Paris Mikki has set up a branch in Central Embassy's Open House on the 6th floor. You will not miss it as the escalators will lead you directly up to them, as if they are the centerpiece of this well-executed open space that finally gives Central Embassy the welcoming atmosphere it sorely-needed.

The usual favourites from Asoke can be found at Central Embassy, note that the Mille Feuille runs out really fast.

One big difference at Embassy is the presence of this seductive Slayer espresso machine.

If you get lucky you could find Carol personally serving you your cake!

If 2 locations to enjoy Paris Mikki isn't enough, keep your eyes peeled. I will bring you updates of more exciting developments, if any.

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For a long while, traveling into the heart of Bangkok on a Saturday morning with 2 little kids for a piece of cake sounded like a ridiculous proposition. Not anymore.

Just last Saturday, my wife and I woke up earlier than normal, prepared our kids, and left home for Asoke just for a piece of this:

The Philip 70, perfect for chocolate and hazelnut lovers

And this:

Lou Lou: A contemporary strawberry cheesecake

And of course, these:

The best croissants in town, according to BK's blind taste test, and also, my tongue. =P

Before Paris Mikki (not to be confused with a chain selling spectacles in Singapore/Malaysia), there was Let Them Eat Cake (which has closed permanently), which proved unique in Bangkok in their rendition of French-style cakes. However, there was always something missing at the latter, be it a lack of service, the cakes frequently appearing in front of me not cold enough, or some items feeling a little too complicated for my liking. Paris Mikki, on the other hand, feels old-school, down-to-earth and consistent, traits that I appreciate.

A brief chat with Carol, the owner of Paris Mikki, confirmed my many initial feelings about the patisserie. Carol is an alumni of the reputed Le Cordon Bleu Paris, both in bakery and cuisine. She trained and worked with the masters, so well that she managed to work in the best kitchens in Paris and stayed there for a decade, until it's finally time to come home. By completely immersing herself long-term into the charming Parisian culture, she has managed to bring a piece of it back to Bangkok, almost completely unaltered.

The dazzling array of pastry on display, I wish I could try them all

Throughout our discussion, Carol's friendliness and eagerness to share could not overshadow her aura of self-confidence. Unwilling to compromise on the consistency of her products, Carol does a huge bulk of the baking and does not believe in expanding her business on impulse before the kitchen is completely ready. She is convinced that her creations can hold their own even in Paris (backed by her French mentors who visited Paris Mikki and gave the thumbs up) and is already working towards opening a shop there in the future.

The elegant little shop is just a short walk into Sukhumvit Soi 19, the alley between Terminal 21 and Westin Grande

Paris Mikki's cakes are pricey no doubt, but they are certainly of the size and quality to convince me that they are worth every penny (especially after I paid SGD9.50++ for each piece of forgettable cake at Lady M in Singapore). Furthermore, unless you make your way to certain 5-star hotels, there is virtually no chance of you getting similar offerings anywhere else in Bangkok.

So, all this points to one conclusion:

Wah Lau Eh! Carol posing with my Stamp of Approval

Even though you might not see my sticker pasted on the shopfront anytime soon, please believe me that Paris Mikki has already won my ultimate stamp of approval.

Noah concurs!

PS. For the hopeless romantic who is interested to know why the bakery is named Paris Mikki, the next time you go to Paris, take a leisurely stroll along Ponts des Arts and you might find the answer, or maybe not.

PSS. Paris Mikki is also part of my 5 recommended eats within walking distance from Asoke BTS station.

What to eat near Bangkok BTS Stations: Asoke (E4)

My second post of this series brings me the ever accessible Asoke station, which is also the interchange to Sukhumvit MRT station. When I just arrived in 2009, this area only had Times Square and Robinson. If I had to summarize Asoke back then with 3 words, I would say it felt over-the-hill.

The opening of Terminal 21 in 2011 completely rejuvenated Asoke, injecting it with new energy, and it has thrived ever since. In fact, Asoke has become my go-to location when I do staycations with my family in town. What I like about Asoke over other lifestyle spots (eg. Thong Lor) is how compact it is. Nice eateries, massages, hotels and watering holes cluster within walking distances from each other, mainly along the little streets connecting Soi 19,21 and 23 together, unlike at the long wide street of Thong Lor where you might struggle to get from one popular spot to another without a car.

With the help of my Asoke local, here's my first instalment of the hidden eateries within walking distance from the BTS station:

1. Ping's: Fish maw soup I would drink everyday

Picture with lady boss Mrs Ho, look out for my sticker if you do visit!

This is the flagship store of the Ping's Restaurant Group, owners of Ping's Thai Teochew Seafood Restaurant at Pathumwan Princess Hotel, which I reviewed with a "Wah Lau Eh!" last year. You can enjoy the same menu (and cheaper drinks) plus some authentic Singapore curry puffs at this outlet in a more old-school ambience.

2. Uma Uma!: Focus your calories on Ramen

Like any typical Sarawakian, I love noodles. From the over-hyped Ippudo (I certainly wouldn't queue for it), to the delicious but wildly inconsistent Yamagoya and Chabuton (it has way too many branches), ramen is something I consistently go for when I need a quick meal.

Uma Uma Ramen, right beside Lawson 108 Convenient Store

Uma Uma's ramen blew me away. There was nothing to complain about their rich broth and perfectly al-dente noodles. Is the option for a small bowl really necessary?

Work of art

They are supposed to be big on gyoza too

The gyoza though, was forgettable, even if they are also one of Uma Uma's signature dishes. So if you specially made your way here in the midst of a day-long food trail in Bangkok, focus your precious calories on their noodles please!


3. Paris Mikki: Exquisite French cakes and pastry

For some reason, the excellent Let Them Eat Cake closed permanently last October. I am relieved to rediscover top-class French-style cakes and pastry at a little bakery called Paris Mikki near Asoke BTS station.

Just a very small space

Similar offerings as Let Them Eat Cake, but less colourful more down-to-earth

I will personally recommend the Mille-Feuille and croissants, though I think most of their desserts should taste pretty good. If you feel like pampering yourself with delicate desserts sprinkled with a bit of class, you can't go wrong with Paris Mikki.

Mille-Feuille, simplicity at its best

4. Bharani: 66-yr-old boat noodle with live jazz

Some of my friends swear by having boat noodles when they come to Thailand, but I wonder if ther know that the soup of boat noodles gets its unmistakeable deep hue and cloudy viscosity from a mixture of cow/pig's blood and salt? Because of this, I am not too big on boat noodles except for a select few, and this is one of them.

You have found the right place if you see half a boat sticking out of a restaurant

Looking at the chalkboard of specialties inside Bharani, I was surprised to find international favourites like Paella, but if you are visiting Thailand for the first time, my recommendation would be to go for their Sansab boat noodles, which they have been selling since 1949.

Clean-tasting broth, not a description you will normally associate with boat noodles

You get to enjoy this taste of tradition in comfort

Come at the right time (7pm on Saturday), you could be slurping down your noodles in the accompaniment of live jazz!


5. Khua Kling Pak Sod: Southern classics done the right way

Khua Kling Pak Sod offers ample parking space 

Of the various regional cuisines Thailand has to offer, I find dishes from the South most fascinating. Khua Kling Pak Sod is therefore a fitting finale to my list of recommendations.

Colourful decoration

Toughtful touch: Deliberate introduction of natural light into the dining area 

Some essential Southern Thai classics include the Thai stink beans (aka petai/sataw) with shrimp paste, crab-meat chilli paste with beehoon, yellow fish curry with coconut shoots etc., all of which can be found here.

Fried beehoon with crabmeat, more like fried crabmeat with beehoon

Stir-fried pork with shrimp paste

Despite the obvious glut of Thai eateries in Bangkok, I would say it is quite a rarity to find a good restaurant completely focused on Southern Thai dishes. Khua Kling Pak Sod is certainly worth a try if you are adventurous, or just simply curious to find out what Thai food has to offer outside Tom Yum Soup and Pad Thai.

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So there you go, the first instalment of my BTS Asoke series, enough to keep your tummies satisfied for a good 2 days. Do you have any other recommendations? I will definitely check them out!