Pepenero: Best Italian Diner on Koh Samui

Updated April 2018

1.5 years later, I set foot in Pepenero, this time, in a bigger, swankier place.

A view into the indoor area of Pepenero.

The more-popular Alfresco dining area, as expected on a resort island.

It satisfied me to no end seeing them expand within such a short space of time. It's no less than Pepenero deserved, as from my first and only experience, I was almost sure that it was up their with the very finest Italian diners in Thailand.

The Pepenero 'welcome' was amusing, as usual, with signs saying "Slow Food, Italian Mood" and the first page of their menu having disclaimers such as "Pasta Alfredo, Spaghetti meatballs, French fries, Potatoes with tabasco and Pasta with chicken are not Italian Cuisine *smiley face." I was literally laughing before my meal even started. But really? Spaghetti with meatballs is not Italian? Hmm...

I was still a little jittery when the food came because I was really really hoping the food would be as good as before.

Speck with Brie, great starter, especially when the Brie is not too strong for me.

Chef's special, a simple spicy spaghetti dish made with grilled tomatoes and Anduja sausages. so goooood!

Braised NZ lamb shank, look at the size of that thing!

Verdict:

One of the BEST meals I had in Thailand for a long time!

Well done Paolo!

**************************************

We stepped into Pepenero and saw an empty table. Owner Paolo politely told us that even though he will keep it for us, it would be better for us to come back in half an hour.

Why?!

He then apologetically explained that the kitchen was small, and they made everything fresh on order, so they needed time to serve guests who were still waiting. True enough, though there were only 3 other groups in the small restaurant, many of them hadn't eaten.

Well anyway, it was a casual Friday night on a resort island, waiting was not a problem. We requested to simply sit at our table and until he's ready to come to us.

Menu bound on the heaviest piece of solid wood you can find. This menu will break your toes if you drop it accidentally.

Oh, and Paolo was nursing a broken leg. He didn't even need to be here. Instead, you find him hopping on crutches painstakingly to every single table again and again to make sure they were fine.

I came to realise within a few minutes that that's just how Pepenero is. They live and breathe their food. For a moment I felt I was not in Thailand anymore. Such cosy, intimate settings eating authentic Italian food hosted by a passionate Italian family just doesn't come by easily in this part of the world. I was a bit shocked to find it in Koh Samui, an island more famous for its sinful moon parties, a place I had been trying to avoid for the past 6 years.

Finally when Paolo came to us, we simply asked him to choose 3 dishes for us to his liking, and he did not leave without explaining in detail how the dishes would be prepared. All of us lost track at some point, but that's just because we were so confident that we didn't bother to pay attention anymore.

Managed to coax some Parma ham and Mozarella out of them as we waited for our food

When the dishes came, we were pretty blown away.

Home-made Gnocchi with asparagus cream, clams and asparagus

Personally, I have not eaten Gnocchi or any other pasta prepared like this. The mix of fragrant asparagus and fresh clams was so incredibly good. A dish I might never forget.

Home-made Bigoli with Italian Sausage Ragu, red wine and fennel seeds

Bigoli is a bigger form of Spaghetti, suitable for pairing with a robust ragu sauce. This was also an excellent dish, with a familiar name but tasting pleasantly unfamiliar.

Ribeye Tagliata style with shallots

It is difficult for me to judge this dish because I have never eaten beef so rare. It was just very slightly seasoned so that we can taste the real flavour of the meet in every bite. I have to say though, that every element on this dish you see was very well executed, potatoes and vegetables included.

Home-made Limoncello before we left, so sweet but so strong, I nearly did a cartwheel after downing the shot

Don't get me wrong. I am not about to make a conclusive judgement on Pepenero after just 1 visit. The food was not perfect (beef too rare for me, dessert a little too sweet too late into the night) but it never is, no matter where we go.

I feel extremely compelled to write this simply because I believe that regardless of what we feel, the food is perfect for Paolo. He will only serve what he feels is flawless to every single diner every single time. That is how Pepenero is, in their own time, dish by dish made from the heart, diner by diner whom he will get to know by heart.

Paolo and I

Keep up your good work Paolo. It was a pleasure to be your guest. You won't see me much, but my promise to you is to appear in front of you whenever I land on the island.

Bangkok Life Hacks: The 1st Collection

With 6 years of experience living life in Thailand everyday, I hereby present you my list of life hacks in Bangkok, as presented on my IG feed (@strangerinbangkok) via the hashtag #bangkoklifehacks, minus the ones that are no longer that relevant, and grouped into 4 categories, guaranteed to make your life in this crazy city that teeny weeny bit better.

1. Battling Yucky Airport Food

Bangkok Life Hacks: Airport food. Pleasantly surprised to see Bon Chon at Suvarnabhumi Airport yesterday. I haven't tried this outlet myself, but you don't usually go wrong with Bon Chon in Bangkok. #bangkoklifehacks #airportfood #suvarnabhumi #bonchon #koreanfriedchicken #friedchicken #strangerinbangkok #bonchonchicken

A photo posted by Eddie (@strangerinbangkok) on Mar 20, 2016 at 6:51pm PDT

Bangkok Life Hacks: Airport Food. Airport food is usually sucky and overpriced, especially after you clear the immigrations. But if you happen to be at the Domestic Terminal at Suvarnabhumi Airport, rejoice because there's Yamagoya Ramen at the airport canteen. Springy noodles, nice egg, rich broth and a splash of garlic oil as the final X-Factor, it has to be the perfect meal before a plane ride. Now if they can just give me a proper pair of chopsticks...... #domesticterminal #internalflight #domesticflight #suvarnabhumi #bangkoklifehacks #ramen #yamagoya #yamagoyaramen #yummyinbangkok #airportfood #strangerinbangkok #strangernotinlaos

A photo posted by Eddie (@strangerinbangkok) on Dec 14, 2015 at 10:00pm PST

Eddietor's Note: Not only my favourite noodle at the airport, but definitely one of my favourite in the whole of Bangkok.


2. Vegetarians look here!!

Bangkok Life Hacks: Vegetarian Food. Misoya serves a vegetarian ramen with soup as robust as any vegetarian soup can ever get. My father-in-law slurped up every drop. #bangkoklifehacks #vegetarian #vegan #ramen #vegetarianramen #misoya #misoyaramen #ramenporn #foodporn #instaramen #foodstagram #strangerinbangkok

A photo posted by Eddie (@strangerinbangkok) on Jul 10, 2016 at 8:33pm PDT

Bangkok Life Hacks: Vegetarian Food Aside of the annual Vegetarian Festival, when an astounding array of vegetarian food lines the streets for the best part of 10 days, it is not that difficult to find solid vegetarian food on a normal day as long as you keep your eyes open. A good example is the pretty extensive vegetarian menu at Greyhound. This vegetarian lasagna salad is outstanding. #greyhound #vegetarianlasagna #lasagna #lasagnasalad #vegetarian #bangkoklifehacks #yummyinbangkok #strangerinbangkok #latergram #foodporn #instafood #foodstagram #greyhoundcafe

A photo posted by Eddie (@strangerinbangkok) on Jan 8, 2016 at 11:26pm PST

Eddietor's Note: This is one of the dishes the non-vegetarian me orders most at Greyhound.


3. For you, the one residing long-term in Thailand

Bangkok Life Hacks: ATM machines If you see a row of ATM machines but don't see the one belonging to your bank, don't worry, because you can withdraw cash from EVERY SINGLE machine here. You have 3 or 4 free chances per month for interbank withdrawal, but even if you have exhausted these chances there will only be a small surcharge per subsequent transaction. There are people who have lived here for months but still do not know this! 😭 #bangkoklifehacks #atm #atmmachines #cashwithdrawal #interbank #convenience #strangerinbangkok

A photo posted by Eddie (@strangerinbangkok) on Jan 20, 2016 at 1:19am PST

Stayed in Bangkok for quite a while but worrying every month end because you have exceeded your data limits? Introducing a life hack that could change your life forever! Direct link to blogpost on my IG profile page. #lifehack #wifi #freewifi #dataplan #livinginbangkok #noworries #ais #truemove #aiswifi #truewifi #dtac #dtacwifi #3bb #wifihotspot #strangerinbangkok #bangkoklifehacks

A photo posted by Eddie (@strangerinbangkok) on Oct 19, 2015 at 6:28am PDT

Eddietor's Note: The COMPLETE game-changer, full post here.

Bangkok Life Hacks If you have a decent post-paid plan at any major telco like AIS, TRUE or DTAC, keep your eyes peeled because you might get some perks when you buy stuff, especially at various airports in Thailand. Look what I got for FREE this time from Black Canyon this afternoon. It doesn't take away the fact though, that their coffee is usually pretty horrid. #blackcanyon #bangkoklifehacks #bangkoklife #ais #aisserenade #freedrink #strangernotinlaos #perks #postpaid

A photo posted by Eddie (@strangerinbangkok) on Dec 16, 2015 at 11:50pm PST

Eddietor's Note: No Black Canyon coffee please, no... no... NOOO!

4. Beat the Queue!!

Bangkok Life Hacks: The latest queueing craze in Bangkok has to be #croissanttaiyaki. But for all who are wondering when you can taste this snack if you don't want to join the ridiculous queues at #emquartier, look here. There's no one at #megabangna! #queue #noqueue #sabaisabai #croissanttaiyaki_th #newcraze #niceornot #strangerinbangkok #bangkok #bkkeats #bangkoklifehacks

A photo posted by Eddie (@strangerinbangkok) on Jul 21, 2015 at 12:46pm PDT

Eddietor's Note: There's probably no more queue even at Emquartier now especially after Bake Cheese Tart's arrival.

Bangkok Life Hack: Tim Ho Wan Not a fan of queueing but don't mind their charsiew buns? Just go to the counter and ask for takeaway, these babies will be yours in 10 minutes. It's the only item available for takeaway, but the 1 that matters. #lifehack #bangkoklifehacks #timhowan #timhowanbangkok #dimsum #michelinstar #noneedtoqueue #salapao #charsiew #yummy #strangerinbangkok #wahlauehstampofapproval

A photo posted by Eddie (@strangerinbangkok) on Oct 25, 2015 at 12:04am PDT

Eddietor's Note: One of my original Wah Lau Eh! items. Read here.

The flower pot from #audrey. It looks picture perfect, and tastes decent, my only problem is that it's impossible not to make a big mess eating this. Bangkok Life Hacks: If the Audrey at #emquartier is too crowded and you just want to have their desserts, the one at G Floor at #emporiumthailand is mostly empty. #potcake #buttercream #phromphong #emdistrict #bangkok #pictureperfect #strangerinbangkok #yummy #bangkokcafe #bangkokcafehopping #setheats #bangkoklifehacks

A photo posted by Eddie (@strangerinbangkok) on Jul 19, 2015 at 6:38pm PDT

Eddietor's Note: Emporium is the mall right opposite Emquartier.


What a great list!!

No? Tell me your Bangkok life hack then!

Gallery Pizza: Maybe the best pizza delivered to your doorstep in Bangkok

Safely-delivered to my apartment

I have said a lot about Gallery Pizza on my article on Aroimakmak.com, but I feel compelled to write about them from a completely different perspective as I know a lot of folks in Bangkok are reading this, and honestly, as much as we don't want to admit, too many of us have been reliant on Pizza Company for our delivery pizza fix over the last few years.

The New Yorker, Gallery Pizza's Signature flavour

Take nothing away from Pizza Company. They have done well in a pizza slugfest with Pizza Hut, Scoozi and Domino's in an extremely competitive market. Then again, if you are into more authentic Neapolitan-style pizzas, Gallery Pizza presents itself as a legitimate alternative.

Having tasted many of their offerings at Sathorn 11 Art Space, I had to try out their delivery service before giving you a report of my experience.

1. The operator who received my call was a local who could speak decent English. She recorded my order and address with no issues and told me my order will take approximately 50 minutes to arrive.
   
   To my knowledge, Gallery Pizza's preferred delivery zone will be Sathorn and Sukhumvit Road up till On Nut (with 40THB surcharge), where they will usually promise arrival within 30 minutes. I live a short distance beyond On Nut, thus the longer delivery time and higher delivery charge (60THB). If you live in the suburbs, I will recommend you to call them to find out whether they deliver to you or not.
   
   
2. Delivery arrived on time, in roughly 45 minutes. More importantly, the correct flavours were sent.
   
   
3. The pizzas were warm. I would have wanted them to be hotter, but considering the distance they traveled, I can live with popping them into my own oven for a few minutes before tucking in.
   
   
4. I am extremely happy that they provide a choice of mixing 2 flavours into 1 pizza. It gives customers the opportunity to savour many flavours in a single order.
   
   
5. They deliver till as late as 4am!!
   
   
6. Last but not least, the current 499THB promotion for any 2 pizzas presents a seriously awesome deal for the quality we are getting.
   
   Unfortunately, I have no idea when the promotion ends, so do have a go while it lasts and check out their website for updates before ordering.

Pad Krapao on one side and Ham/Mushroom on the other

In this rainy season, meal delivery services often become life savers for city dwellers like us in Bangkok. Don't forget this article when the clouds start to build up, you will thank me for it.

Good to be a father

Earlier this evening, after feeding the kids, I left them to play while I cleared the table.

Then came the expected squeal from Noah, which was definitely caused by a pinch or scratch by her sister, who has learnt to retaliate when her brother refuses to share his toys.

Just this time, it was probably more painful, so much so that Noah started tearing and came to hug me.

I did a small pep talk to Ellie to warn her not to hurt korkor and sent her off to apologise. Little did I expect Noah to have already hidden himself in the guest room in anger so as to avoid her sister's approach.

Ellie found him anyway, tiptoed to give her big brother a few pats on his head before giving him a hug.

The next moment was pure magic. Noah's facial expression completely changed in an instant, and semi-reluctantly, he hugged her back. I proceeded to hold both of them in my arms and before I knew it they were playing together again.

It's these little things that remind me that I am a lucky man, to be blessed with a 2 lovely kids. Without them, I would never understand nor experience the capacity to love and to be loved without condition.

Even though most days are tough, and some really really rough, I still have to say, it's good to be a father.

If the Stranger can cook: One-pot Braised Chicken Stew (Inspired by Gennaro Contaldo)

Recently, I have been using cooking videos on YouTube to entertain Noah, hoping to inspire him to try new food, as he has become frustratingly picky during mealtimes in the last year or so. Fortunately, like father like son, he's just as fascinated with them as me, especially those flamboyant 'performances' from a certain hungry Italian named Gennaro Contaldo, who not only appears to be absolutely passionate about his cooking, but also makes it look extremely achievable.

I did my take on Gennaro's Italian Braised Chicken Stew, following his steps as much as I could with the ingredients, and it worked a treat (Noah ate A LOT). So here's exactly what I did:

GENNARO'S BRAISED CHICKEN STEW (MADE IN A NORMAL PERSON'S HOUSE)

Ingredients (serves 3-4):

• 8 kampung chicken drumsticks, or a mix of drumsticks and thigh
• 2-3 rashers of bacon or 40-50g of pancetta, sliced into small strips
• handful of rosemary and thyme
• 1 medium-sized onion, diced
• half a carrot, diced
• 1 red bell pepper, diced
• 1 potato, diced
• 500g of tomato, diced (I used a mix of cherry and vine)
• 1 glass of white wine
• 2-3 tablespoonfuls of tomato puree
• 200ml of stock

All the diced vegetables, this is what your family is going to eat.

Cooking Procedure:

Season chicken generously with salt and freshly-ground black pepper

Sear the chicken and bacon/pancetta till there is a nice golden colour

Lay the rosemary and thyme on top and deglaze the pan with the glass of white wine

After the alcohol has evaporated, add in the rest of the vegetables

Dissolve tomato puree (amount can be adjusted based on your own preference) in the stock and stir it into the pot

After simmering for 45 minutes under low hear and a final swig of olive oil (taste and add salt/pepper if necessary), serve with some warm toasted bread

Some X-factors that might make a difference to your dish:

1. Use kampung/free-range chicken. It's more tasty, more healthy and less oily. If you are afraid that the meat is too tough, use only drumsticks and thigh.
2. The bacon/pancetta is optional, but having the odd bite of savoury smoked meat during your dinner is really pleasant.
3. Make sure you brown the meat on a hot searing pan, do not skip this step!
4. You can be creative with the vegetables, things like parsley, celery and even beans and peas will work.

Buon Appetito!

Paris Mikki: Authentic French Pastry in the heart of Bangkok

Updated 16th January 2018

Since many months ago, Paris Mikki has set up a branch in Central Embassy's Open House on the 6th floor. You will not miss it as the escalators will lead you directly up to them, as if they are the centerpiece of this well-executed open space that finally gives Central Embassy the welcoming atmosphere it sorely-needed.

The usual favourites from Asoke can be found at Central Embassy, note that the Mille Feuille runs out really fast.

One big difference at Embassy is the presence of this seductive Slayer espresso machine.

If you get lucky you could find Carol personally serving you your cake!

If 2 locations to enjoy Paris Mikki isn't enough, keep your eyes peeled. I will bring you updates of more exciting developments, if any.

**********

For a long while, traveling into the heart of Bangkok on a Saturday morning with 2 little kids for a piece of cake sounded like a ridiculous proposition. Not anymore.

Just last Saturday, my wife and I woke up earlier than normal, prepared our kids, and left home for Asoke just for a piece of this:

The Philip 70, perfect for chocolate and hazelnut lovers

And this:

Lou Lou: A contemporary strawberry cheesecake

And of course, these:

The best croissants in town, according to BK's blind taste test, and also, my tongue. =P

Before Paris Mikki (not to be confused with a chain selling spectacles in Singapore/Malaysia), there was Let Them Eat Cake (which has closed permanently), which proved unique in Bangkok in their rendition of French-style cakes. However, there was always something missing at the latter, be it a lack of service, the cakes frequently appearing in front of me not cold enough, or some items feeling a little too complicated for my liking. Paris Mikki, on the other hand, feels old-school, down-to-earth and consistent, traits that I appreciate.

A brief chat with Carol, the owner of Paris Mikki, confirmed my many initial feelings about the patisserie. Carol is an alumni of the reputed Le Cordon Bleu Paris, both in bakery and cuisine. She trained and worked with the masters, so well that she managed to work in the best kitchens in Paris and stayed there for a decade, until it's finally time to come home. By completely immersing herself long-term into the charming Parisian culture, she has managed to bring a piece of it back to Bangkok, almost completely unaltered.

The dazzling array of pastry on display, I wish I could try them all

Throughout our discussion, Carol's friendliness and eagerness to share could not overshadow her aura of self-confidence. Unwilling to compromise on the consistency of her products, Carol does a huge bulk of the baking and does not believe in expanding her business on impulse before the kitchen is completely ready. She is convinced that her creations can hold their own even in Paris (backed by her French mentors who visited Paris Mikki and gave the thumbs up) and is already working towards opening a shop there in the future.

The elegant little shop is just a short walk into Sukhumvit Soi 19, the alley between Terminal 21 and Westin Grande

Paris Mikki's cakes are pricey no doubt, but they are certainly of the size and quality to convince me that they are worth every penny (especially after I paid SGD9.50++ for each piece of forgettable cake at Lady M in Singapore). Furthermore, unless you make your way to certain 5-star hotels, there is virtually no chance of you getting similar offerings anywhere else in Bangkok.

So, all this points to one conclusion:

Wah Lau Eh! Carol posing with my Stamp of Approval

Even though you might not see my sticker pasted on the shopfront anytime soon, please believe me that Paris Mikki has already won my ultimate stamp of approval.

Noah concurs!

PS. For the hopeless romantic who is interested to know why the bakery is named Paris Mikki, the next time you go to Paris, take a leisurely stroll along Ponts des Arts and you might find the answer, or maybe not.

PSS. Paris Mikki is also part of my 5 recommended eats within walking distance from Asoke BTS station.

Dreaming of my Grandparents

I walked out of the room.

There, in the living room of my maternal grandparents' house, was my brother, some maternal aunties and uncles, and little Miss Ellie sitting on her green glider.

Standing behind the sofa was an old couple. They looked familiar, probably in their 70s. The lady had curly hair and the man had a box of something in his hand. They smiled lovingly at me. Was it really them?

"Can't you recognise me? I am grandma!" she said, with her usual boisterous tone in our native Foochow language.

One of my aunts smiled, as if she knew about the surprise.

Grandpa didn't say a word. He put his hand forward, gesturing me to take a snack from the box. It was my favourite 礼饼 (a foochow pastry eaten during happy occasions with filling made of dates). I took a wedge and sat down beside my brother.

Subsequently, after some random chatter (which I don't remember) with the folks in the room, I was shocked to realise that my aunts and uncles did not know of their presence. I then looked at my brother, who was also munching on the same pastry. He nodded, indicating he saw them too, and the pastry in our mouths were more real than ever (I can still taste the sweetness in my mouth while typing this).

I shut my eyes to suck it all in, and when I opened them, I was back in my own living room in Bangkok (I sleep in the living room sometimes when I have to get up early in the morning). This was when I couldn't control it anymore. I sobbed like a baby.

I took at look at my phone, it was 5.41am, exactly 4 minutes before my alarm is supposed to go off, waking me up to cook chicken soup for my family. They even woke me up at the right time, so that I can switch off my alarm to allow my family to continue sleeping in peace.

Why did they appear? On this day, at this time, right before I was supposed to cook my favourite Foochow style kampung chicken soup, the soup that they cooked for my mum, the soup my mum cooked for me, and now I am cooking for my family.

The same pot of soup linking generations together

One thing I know for sure, is that the soup tonight will taste doubly sweet.